Culture
The Ghost City: Riding Hanoi and Saigon During Day 1 of Tet
Vietnam’s traffic is legendary, but on the first day of Tet, the music stops. The smog clears and the cities fall into a deep slumber, offering a once-a-lifetime ride through wide-open boulevards.
Here is your guide to experiencing the quiet. (For advice on where everyone else went—and how to ride safely there—consult The Ultimate Guide to Riding Vietnam During Tet).
The Great Exodus (Why It Happens)
To understand the silence, you must understand the cultural gravity of Tet. It is not just a holiday; it is a homecoming.
The Urban Evacuation
In the week leading up to Tet, the population of major cities drops by nearly 50%. Millions of workers, students, and officials pack their bags (and their bikes) to return to their ancestral hometowns in the provinces. This mass exodus drains the lifeblood—traffic—out of the metropolis. By New Year’s Eve, the cities are left to the “true” locals: the families who have lived there for generations.
The Sacred Silence of Day 1
The stillness peaks on the morning of Mung 1 (The First Day of Tet). Culturally, this is a time for family. People stay indoors to perform rituals at their ancestors’ altars and enjoy the first meal of the year. No shops are open. No markets are buzzing. The streets are abandoned because, traditionally, leaving the house too early without a specific destination is seen as wandering—a bad omen for the year.
The “Clean Slate” Atmosphere
The physical atmosphere of the city changes. With millions of exhausts turned off, the air quality improves dramatically. In Hanoi, the winter mist hangs low over the lakes without being cut by fumes. In Saigon, the morning sun hits the colonial architecture without the haze. It feels like stepping back in time to the 1990s, before the motorcycle boom took over.
A Fleeting Window
This window is small. By the afternoon of Day 1, families begin to emerge to visit relatives. By Day 2, the pagodas are crowded. By Day 3, the taxis are back. But that first morning—from sunrise (6:00 AM) until noon—is pure magic. It is a fleeting moment of tranquility that you must wake up early to catch.
The Rider’s Privilege
Most tourists are asleep or stuck in their hotels, thinking there is nothing to do. But you have a key to the city: a motorbike. While walking the empty streets is nice, riding them is euphoric. You can appreciate the layout, the architecture, and the flow of the city without the stress of survival.
The Melancholic Beauty
Hanoi during Tet is often cold, misty, and incredibly atmospheric. The ancient capital wears its age well in the silence.
The Old Quarter Grid
Usually, the Old Quarter is a claustrophobic maze where pedestrians dodge scooters. On Tet morning, you can ride down Hang Gai (Silk Street) or Hang Dao and actually look up at the architecture. You will notice the French shutters, the mossy tiled roofs, and the ancient banyan trees that are usually obscured by commercial signage and traffic jams.
Hoan Kiem Lake
The road circling Hoan Kiem Lake is the heart of the city. On a normal weekend, it is pedestrianized; on weekdays, it is gridlocked. On Tet morning, it is open to bikes but empty. Riding a slow, smooth loop around the lake, watching the red The Huc Bridge reflect in the still water, is a Zen-like experience.
The Long Bien Bridge
This historic, rusted bridge is typically a chaotic stream of commuters. During Tet, it becomes a lonely iron spine stretching across the Red River. You can stop your bike in the middle of the bridge (something usually impossible) to take photos of the river and the banana plantations below without fearing for your life.
The Flag Tower and Ba Dinh
The wide, Soviet-style boulevards around the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Flag Tower are built for parades, but usually filled with buses. Riding these massive, empty avenues gives you a sense of scale and grandeur that is lost in the daily crush.
The Scent of Incense
As you ride through Hanoi’s narrow alleys, take a deep breath. The city doesn’t smell of gasoline; it smells of burning incense and wood smoke from the Banh Chung boiling pots. It is the olfactory definition of the Vietnamese New Year.
Saigon (HCMC) – The Sunny Open Road
Ho Chi Minh City is the engine of Vietnam’s economy—fast, loud, and aggressive. Seeing it stopped is perhaps even more shocking than seeing Hanoi quiet.
District 1 Landmarks
The area around the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office is usually a parking lot of tourist buses and taxis. On Tet morning, you can park your bike right in front of the cathedral for the perfect photo. The colonial brickwork glows in the Southern sun, and the silence allows you to hear the birds in the park—a rarity in D1.
The Ben Thanh Roundabout
The roundabout in front of Ben Thanh Market is famous for being a “circle of death” for hesitant riders. Conquering it usually requires nerves of steel. On Tet, you can ride through it in calm, wide circles. The market itself is shuttered, offering a rare view of the building’s structure without the clutter of stalls.
The Thu Thiem Tunnel/Bridge
Cross the river to the Thu Thiem side. Riding back over the Ba Son Bridge (Thu Thiem 2) gives you a panoramic view of the District 1 skyline. Usually, you can’t stop here. On Tet, you can pull over (safely) and admire the modern skyscrapers rising out of the quiet riverbank.
The Chinatown (Cho Lon) Difference
While District 1 is quiet, District 5 (Cho Lon) has a different vibe. The Chinese-Vietnamese community takes the “luck” rituals very seriously. While traffic is light, the pagodas (like Thien Hau) are engulfed in clouds of incense coils. Riding from the silence of D1 to the spiritual haze of D5 is a fantastic contrast.
The “Flower Street” (Nguyen Hue)
Note that Nguyen Hue Walking Street is transformed into a massive floral display (“Flower Street”). It is pedestrian-only, but riding alongside it on the parallel streets gives you a glimpse of the colorful elaborate statues and millions of flowers without the jostling crowds if you go early enough.
Photography & Documentation
If you are a content creator or just want amazing Instagram photos, this is your “Golden Hour”—literally and figuratively.
The “Lonely Rider” Shot
The Holy Grail of Tet photography is the “Lonely Rider” shot: you, your bike, and a famous landmark with absolutely zero people in the background. To get this, you need to be out by 6:30 AM or 7:00 AM. By 9:00 AM, the first families will start appearing in their Ao Dai for photoshoots.
Wide Angles Work Again
Usually, shooting wide-angle in Vietnam is messy because the frame is cluttered with random vehicles. On Tet, you can use wide lenses to capture the leading lines of the empty streets and the geometry of the buildings.
Drone Opportunities (With Caution)
While flying drones in cities is generally restricted and risky, the lack of crowds reduces the safety hazard. However, be extremely careful near government buildings (especially in Hanoi near the Mausoleum) where it is strictly illegal. Stick to the rivers or open parks.
Capturing the Colors
Look for the red. Every house will have a red flag flying, and the streets are lined with red banners. Against the grey sky of Hanoi or the blue sky of Saigon, this red “pop” is visually striking and signifies the festive spirit.
The “Ao Dai” Parade
Later in the morning, head to the major lakes or cathedrals. You will see thousands of locals dressed in their finest traditional dress (Ao Dai). It is a colorful fashion show. While the “Ghost City” vibe fades, the cultural portrait opportunities begin.
The Safety Reality Check
It is easy to get lulled into a false sense of security by the empty roads. Do not let your guard down. The “Ghost City” has its own specific dangers.
The “Super Mario” Effect
Because the roads are empty, the few people who are driving tend to drive very fast. Young locals on modified bikes often treat the empty boulevards as race tracks during Tet. Always check your mirrors and intersections, even if it looks deserted.
The Red Light Runners
Traffic lights in Vietnam are often treated as “suggestions” on normal days. On Tet, they are frequently ignored completely. Do not assume that a green light means you are safe. Look left, look right, and look left again before crossing any intersection.
Drunk Driving (The Real Threat)
Tet is a drinking holiday. “Happy New Year” toasts start at 8:00 AM. By the afternoon, there is a significantly higher percentage of intoxicated drivers on the road than usual. If you see a rider swerving or driving erratically, give them a massive amount of space.
Unexpected Obstacles
With the streets empty, people use the road for other things. You might turn a corner and find a family playing badminton in the middle of the street, or a neighborhood party that has spilled out onto the asphalt. Ride at a cruising speed, not a racing speed.
Gas Stations
While major petrol stations stay open, smaller ones may close. Don’t wait until your tank is empty. If you see an open station (Petrolimex is your best bet), fill up.
FAQ
When exactly is the city empty?
The peak “Ghost City” time is from 6:00 AM to 11:00 AM on the 1st Day of the Lunar New Year. The afternoon of Day 1 gets busier. Day 2 and 3 are relatively quiet compared to normal days, but the absolute “dead” silence is only on the morning of Day 1.
Are coffee shops open?
Yes! Coffee culture never sleeps. While street stalls close, major chains (like Highlands or The Coffee House) and many trendy independent cafes stay open to serve the youth. In fact, going for coffee on Day 1 is a tradition for young friends. Expect a surcharge on the menu.
Is it spooky?
Not at all. It feels peaceful and cleansing. It is a rare moment where you can hear the wind in the trees and see the architecture without the visual pollution of traffic. It feels like the city is taking a deep breath.
Can I rent a bike on Day 1?
Usually, no. Most rental shops (including us!) will be closed on Day 1 so our staff can be with their families. You need to pick up your rental bike at least 2 days before Tet and keep it for the duration of the holiday.
What should I wear?
If you are just riding, wear your safety gear. But if you plan to stop and walk around heavily populated photo spots (like the Cathedral or Lake), dress respectfully. It is a formal holiday. You will feel underdressed in dirty backpacker shorts when everyone else is in silk gowns and suits.
Riding Through a Landscape of Luck
Tet is not just a holiday; it is a complete reset of the country’s rhythm. The chaos of the city melts into the quiet of the countryside, and the usual noise of commerce is replaced by the sounds of family celebrations.
For the motorbike rider, it presents challenges, certainly. But it also presents an empty open road, a festive atmosphere, and a chance to see Vietnam in its most authentic, joyous state. Riding through the silent, empty streets of Hanoi or Saigon on the first day of Tet is a surreal and wonderful experience—a photographer’s delight and a rider’s dream.
Ready to see the cities like never before?