Routes
Awesome Xuan Son National Park
While most riders blast past Phu Tho on their way to the Hoang Lien Son mountains, those in the know take a detour into the deep green heart of Xuan Son National Park. Located just 130km from the chaos of Hanoi, Xuan Son remains one of Northern Vietnam’s best-kept secrets—a place where the pavement ends and the primary jungle begins.
This isn’t just a destination; it’s a time-capsule experience where the Muong and Dao ethnic groups live in harmony with a landscape dominated by limestone peaks and hidden river systems. As your Road Captain, I’ve mapped out a route that bypasses the tourist traps and takes you straight into the “Sri Lanka of Vietnam.”
The Journey Out of the Concrete Jungle
The Great Escape
Leaving Hanoi at 07:30 am is critical to beat the city’s notorious congestion. Your journey begins on the QL32 or the CT03, necessary stretches of highway that clear the urban sprawl quickly. Yes, it is ‘hump’ day.
The Ba Vi Horizon
As the city fades, the skyline is dominated by the three peaks of Ba Vi National Park. On a clear day, these mountains serve as your North Star, signaling that the real riding is about to begin.
Paddy Field Pacing
Once you transition off the main highway, the pace slows. You’ll find yourself on long stretches of road lined with vibrant rice paddies, sharing the tarmac with nothing but the occasional water buffalo and local farmers.
Entering Tea Country
This is where the scenery shifts dramatically. The flat plains give way to rolling hills covered in manicured tea plantations. The emerald-green rows create a “stepped” landscape that rivals the tea highlands of Sri Lanka.
The Ascent into the Clouds
The final leg involves a winding mountain climb. As you ascend into the jungle canopy, the air cools and the mist often rolls in, giving you the literal feeling of riding with your head in the clouds.
Navigating the Park Like a Pro
The Strategic Entry
Don’t follow the standard GPS route to the southern entrance. To get the best views, stay on the QL32 past the main gate and enter from the northeast. This ensures you hit the best tea plantation viewpoints before the jungle thickens.
The Loop Strategy
By entering from the north, you can ride through the heart of the park and exit through the southern gate, completing a full loop. Be warned: the southern exit can get bumpy and technical—perfect for our Honda XR150s or CRF300s.
Village Life: Ban Coi and Ban Lap
These two villages form the cultural soul of the park. Traditional stilt houses sit on the valley floor, surrounded by jagged limestone cliffs. It’s a serene, isolated atmosphere where life moves at a different speed.
Post-Ride Rituals
As the sun sets over the valley, follow the sound of laughter to the local Bia Hoi. Joining the Muong and Dao locals for a cold bia is the ultimate way to cap off a day in the saddle.
Jungle Adventures & Hidden Waters
There is plenty to do in the park. It is perfect for a weekend trip, but if you can get an extra day off, then do so. a 3-Day 2 night trip will allow you to see all there is in the park.
The 6km Hidden Waterfall Hike
Starting from Bản Cỏi, a signposted path leads toward the base of the mountains. The trail follows a river that shows the raw power of the summer monsoon—expect some rugged, washed-out sections.
River Trekking
When the path disappears, do what the locals do: use the stream as your trail. During the dry months (Spring and Autumn), you can hike directly up the flowing stream to reach a secluded waterfall.
The Coi Cave Experience
Deep within the park lies Coi Cave. Exploring this limestone cavern offers a cool respite from the humid jungle heat and a glimpse into the subterranean world that feeds the park’s many springs.
The Jungle Pool
Near the cave, there is a natural swimming hole. It’s a fantastic spot to wash off the road dust. Locals even rent inner tubes and swimming costumes, making it a social hub in the middle of the wilderness.
High Ten Mountain
For those who want to trade their riding boots for hiking boots, the trek to the peak of High Ten Mountain offers panoramic views of the entire 150-square-km reserve.
Staying in the Heart of the Wild
Traditional Stilt House Living
Xuan Son doesn’t do luxury hotels, and that’s why we love it. Over the last decade, a few families have opened their traditional stilt houses as homestays, offering a truly immersive experience.
Homestay Ky Tam
Located in Bản Lấp, Ky Tam is a Road Captain favorite. It’s basic, clean, and authentic. Expect to pay between 250k-300k VND ($9-$13) for a night of peace.
Homestay Xuan Son
Another excellent option in the same village. The hospitality here is legendary. Since they don’t have booking websites, you’ll need to call ahead (098 457 74 58) or have us help you arrange it.
The Family Table
Always request dinner in advance. There is nothing like sitting on a bamboo mat with a local family, sharing a hearty Vietnamese feast and “happy water” (rice wine) after a 5-hour ride.
Camping Under the Canopy
For the self-sufficient adventurer, Xuan Son offers plenty of spots to pitch a tent. Waking up to the sound of the jungle waking up is an experience you won’t find at a roadside guest house.
Road Captain’s Essential Tips
The Tech-Free Zone
Cell service is spotty at best once you enter the valley. Embrace it. Turn off your phone and let the rhythm of the park take over. This is one of the few places left where you can truly “unplug.”
Gear for the Humid Heat
The jungle is hot and sweaty. Wear breathable, moisture-wicking base layers under your riding gear. Also, keep your skin covered when off the bike to avoid the aggressive local mosquitoes.
Seasonal Awareness
While the park is beautiful year-round, the “Dinosaur Loop” and the back roads of Xuan Son can become treacherous during the peak rainy season. Check the forecast for flash flood warnings before heading out.
The Right Tool for the Job
While a scooter can make it, a dual-sport bike like the Honda XR150 or the Yamaha PG-1 is highly recommended for the bumpy southern loop and the steep climbs into the villages.
FAQ
Is the road from Hanoi to Xuan Son suitable for beginner riders?
The initial highway and the road to the park are paved and manageable. However, the internal park roads and the southern exit can be narrow and bumpy. We recommend at least some experience with mountain riding or joining one of our guided tours.
Can I find fuel easily inside the National Park?
Fuel is scarce once you are deep within the park. We recommend topping up your tank in Tan Son town before you make the final ascent into the jungle.
Are there ATMs available in Xuan Son?
No. This is a cash-only economy. Make sure you withdraw enough Vietnamese Dong in Hanoi or Thanh Son to cover your fuel, food, and accommodation.
What is the best time of year to visit for photography?
Spring (March-April) offers lush greens and misty mountains, while Autumn (September-November) provides clearer skies and better visibility for the Ba Vi mountain views.
Is there secure parking for my motorbike at the homestays?
Yes, one of the benefits of stilt houses is the open area underneath the house, which is traditionally used for livestock but now serves as a safe, covered spot for your bike.
Why We Ride to Xuan Son
Contact AZ Motorbikes to confirm motorcycle availability, pickup and return arrangements, included equipment and support for your intended rental.